It’s been an interesting week in which I have done some writing, exploring & walking.
Last Sunday I walked to the local cemetery. It’s quite small but the graves are all pretty well maintained & it’s clear that it’s regularly used. There are two ‘sheds’ there full of boxes of bones, one older shed & a newer one. I went into the old shed, which it looks like cats live in & was shocked to see a box which had the lid missing. Glancing inside with fascination I was confronted with the skull & femur bone of a deceased person. Not what I was expecting to see on a sunny Sunday morning! I didn’t take a pic because I thought that would be a little irreverential?? This is the inside of the shed though, as you can see it’s neglected & has an open door & no window, hence the cats.
It is a sobering thought that these boxes of bones sit neglected & exposed. Really reiterates the transience of life. We place ourselves at the centre of the universe, perhaps assuming that our memories will live on forever, that we will be remembered after our death, that we are more important than everything else, only to realise, perhaps too late that we will be forgotten, our bones will crumble & life will continue without us.
Shit, that got deep! I have to say though, the Greeks do death better than us. The pervading culture of religion that is so present wherever you go, means that death isn’t a taboo subject. Just because your body isn’t present it doesn’t mean you are not part of the lives of those who still love you. It must be a real comfort to have such a strong belief system. It’s not for me, but I am appreciating it.
On a lighter note, I had another walk around the old village & discovered an area that I hadn’t been before, always something new to see. This Tavern is in the heart of the village & I had to laught when I saw the sign 😂
I went to yoga class again on Sunday & then Melanie gave me a lift into Molyvos where we had a coffee which turned into a lunch for which we were joined by her husband. It was super windy down at the port but we had a lovely time together, they have lived here for 30 years so know the place really well. Everyone knows them because they have one of the souvlaki shops here, real locals! They ordered lunch so I got real Greek cuisine, salad, bread, fish, octopus & fried cheese. It was delicious & a treat to spend time with new friends.
As promised I went to the graveyard in Molyvos & spent an hour wandering around this amazing place. What a view for a dead person! There were a couple of women tending to a grave but once they left I was alone with just the birds & the breeze. I didn’t stay for the entire sunset as I had to walk back through the field & in the dark that could end badly.
I had a car for a few days this week so I decided to drive an hour to see a waterfall on the Western part of the Island. Whilst the waterfall made me realise how amazing Australian nantural wonders are, I loved sitting by the edge of the pool listening to the water crashing down & enjoying the colours on the rocks around me. Even better though is the story that surrounds the place.
The area is identified with a beautiful maenad of Dionysus who was a, & I quote here, ‘raging whore’. She was very beautiful & like other sirens deceived passing men with her sensuality, attracting them to erotic orgies. After satisfying her sexual appetites, she threw them in the chasm formed by the waterfall rushing down the towering rocks all surrounded by dense vegetation . The name of the beautiful maenad was Chrysilla or Ktesilla which is the name of the region where the waterfall flows. Here I am, pretending to be a raging whore sitting atop the pool where I’ve tossed all the men I’ve used…hahaha!!
I also visited a traditional hill village called Agiasos whilst I had the car. This is a beatiful place nestled in the shadow of Mt Olympus, know for it’s cobbled streets, old houses, religion & art. The reading society building was unfortunately not open but I did go into the Church of Panayia, an old monastery surrounded by courtyards & a high wall. There is a working(?) icon of Our Lady dating back from the 4th century AD. The inside of the church is quite beautiful, really ornate & well maintained. The ladies are obviously getting ready for Easter & there we flowers throughout the church. The air smelt of incense & there was a feeling of calm & peace. Like I said, I’m not religious but I am appreciating the sanctity & quietness of the churches that dot the landscape.
My serenity was a little disturbed as I walked up one side of the main aisle of the church. There, in the stalls, sat a very old woman who looked like a witch. She didn’t crack a smile but looked at me as though I was a scourge on her day. I didn’t hang around after that. Fortunately when I walked out into the sunshine there was another old woman who had a lovely kind face & gave me a warm smile.
Walking back up the hill I passed large groups of men sitting on chairs outside the numerous Cafe’s that line the cobbled streets. It’s a bit intimidating cutting a swathe through their path but a bright Καλημέρα breaks the tension! I wonder what they talk about? Is their conversation more esoteric than that of Aussie males? They have made a past time here of sitting together drinking coffee, smoking & talking. Do they share their feelings or just talk about goats & fishing? One of the great mysteries of life eh?!
There are lots of derelict old buildings here, interspersed with beautifully restored ones. People are busy getting ready for the summer season & the square is quiet now but won’t be for long. There are groups of birdwatchers here & Turks wander the streets window shopping & drinking coffee in the sunshine.
Lunch consisted of Greek salad, bread, hand-cut chips & pork sausage & was flipping delicious. I couldn’t eat it all & the waiter was less than impressed with me! I had a brief conversation with a lady about ceramics & Australia, all conducted in Grenglish, which was fun & good practise. Passing back through the square I made my way slowly back down the streets to the car & from there to home. Here is the fountain in the square where you can stop for a sip or fill a bottle.
On the way home I stopped to fill my bottles at a fountain near to Maria & Aris’ other place. I know the water there is good & as I was getting back into the car two policeman also pulled in to fill their bottles. I felt like a local, like I knew what I was doing 😆 I discovered the following day that this particular fountain is special because of the icon on it.
Yesterday I drove into Molyvos to have coffee with Elena, the lady from the library. We sat down in part of the village that I hadn’t visited before, right above the beach. It was beautiful listening to the waves & learning more about this special village. It’s got energy, vibration, power, spirit, call it what you will, there’s something about it. Elena had to go to work but I stayed another couple of hours & wrote the book. What a bloody dream come true, writing a book on the beach in Greece. Can it get any better than that??
Conversation with Elena is profound, spiritual & personal. We have gone deep very quickly & both feel very connected at some intangible level. She is a beautiful woman & I will miss her when I leave here. How fortunate to have met when we did 🫶🏻
So this is the weekly round up. Not sure what the rest of the day will bring. A long beach walk, a big breakfast & now writing by the pool in the sunshine. Ain’t life grand!?!
